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Faenza icons, and I replaced the stock GTK icons with Faenza action icons. Figured out how to autohide wbar (set unfocused alpha to 0).
Also installed SpaceFM as file manager. Even sifted through the code of several applications (pmount, filemnt, edit-sfs) to replace the remnants of Rox-filer with SpaceFM. They sure don't make it easy to get rid of Rox...